Advice on wiring a clifford 330x1 canbus alarm

[Anni516]

Hi.
I've just purchased a clifford 330x1 can bus alarm as my 56 plate caddy doesn't have one.
I'm pretty confident with wiring it in if I know what wires to splice into.
Has anyone fitted one of these alarms that could shed some light.
Also where's the best place to go through the firewall with the siren cable.
Thanks in advance.

[slipdogg]

Not had any experience with clifford, but this is what i used when installing autowatch 695's

12v Red/Violet (Large) Beige 11 way connector Marked "D" of underside of BCM @ right side under dash
IGN via canbus
EARTH via chassis bolt.
CAN High,Orange/Green
On a Black 12 way connector Marked "G" of underside of BCM @ right side under dash
CAN LO,orange/brown
On a Black 12 way connector Marked "G" of underside of BCM @ right side under dash

Cable entry is behind the battery, easier if you go inside passenger foot well take off the foam and look up and left you'll see the grommet, use a straightened coat hanger or aerial to fish the wire through, if you get it just right it will come out the right side of the battery.

Also the above wires can be found coming out of the passenger door harness and if you remove the glove box and can get at them comfortably it makes for an easy fast install,

Led on top of dash in front of storage bin there's a large void.

[Anni516]

Thanks. That's a great help. When your splicing into the wires I don't like them scotch blocks, I'm thing cut a bit of the wire sheath out and solder wire into it and then shrink wrap ?
Thanks. Ho and what is BCM. Lol.

[Anni516]

Hi. Also there are 3 canbus wires. High. Low. And SW.
I presume that the only wires I need to use are
12v constant.
Ground.
Can high
Can low.

[slipdogg]

Scotch locks should be band in the auto industry they are just shocking, I've seen dealer installs where they've used scotch locks on 6/8mm wires to power high current draw devices and found scorch marks when investigating the cause of why the device is not working. Basically the scotch lock nips a few strands of wires giving minimum contact which can restrict the flow of current causing a build up of electrical pressure resulting in heat.

There are a few industry accepted methods of splicing, the main one being soldering, but this needs to be done right and with a decent iron, I find solder to be fine on wire gauges from.75 to 3/4mm any bigger the iron might not be hot enough to heat through the thicker wires which can leave clumpy cold joints which are not good, in this case you can bare back the outer sheath wrap your attaching wire round smooth and tight, then tightly wrap with insulation tape then a cable tie around that to prevent the insulation from unraveling.

You can also cut the wire in two and use pass through butt connectors and ratchet crimps but I find this can become bulky and messy especially when connecting several wires in one location.

BCM- body control module.

[Anni516]

Thanks slipdogg.
I hate scotch blocks too, always looks gash.
I think I'm gonna do it by cutting 1/2" of outer sleeth away from the cable, then twist the joining cable around the erea of revealed inner cable and apply solder. Then wrap it with really sticky loom tape. Hopefully this should be a nice solid clean joint.