CADDY2K.com

Assuming you have a genuine version of Ross-Tech VAGCOM, then I suggest you may have better luck resolving this mess by posting a precis of your predicament on the Ross-Tech forum. They have VAGCOM specialists on that forum who are probably far better placed to dig you out of this hole.

They will however need the precise specs of your Caddy. So if you have not already done it track down a copy of the Official VW VIN label which should be on the inside cover of the owners manual and is probably also glued to the underside (roof) of the fuse box (although you will need to crawl right inside the car to spot it. A photo of that label (make sure all of it is clear) will allow them to know exactly the specs of your vehicle when it left the factory. Obviously any subsequently installed extras will not be covered but it should be enough to get the Caddy drivable again.

Sadly If its not a genuine Ross-Tech VAGCOM scanner that you have been using, then it is probably time to get help from a VW dealership.

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For anyone wanting to mess around with VCDS, it cannot be stated strongly enough: *MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SAVED THE AUTOSCAN FILE* (preferably to a backup thumb drive as well as somewhere on your computer) before you make *ANY* changes. Each vehicle is programmed for the exact hardware that was fitted to it when it left factory, so it can be very difficult to recover from programming errors without your vehicle's original autoscan.

I'd suggest reading the VCDS instructions and making yourself familiar with the recovery process like the logs etc. before jumping in with both feet.
Buying a licenced original VCDS is also a good start, the support from the manufacturer via their forum is priceless.
You wouldn't believe the amount of people who charge for using a fake VCDS on others vehicles and then beg for assistance when they screw up.

Allright after _many_ hours I have finnaly got the car close to what is what. I still have an issue with the highbeam not wanting to "stay on" when the lights are turned on, but that's a minor thing compared to a car that was _totaly_ undriveble.

I did _alot_ of research and it turns out that it's indeed the fake vcds program how screwed my car up.

So for anyone tempted to save some cash on fake vcds, DO NOT, just don't. Its simply isn't worth it.

So now after a hard lesson learned I still got som questions. There are a lot of "hidden" options in vcds, how could you figure out what this ones are?

I am specifically interested in byte 29 in Central electric module. My last code there is 40, anyone know what it
controls?

Thanks for all the help guys!

/Erik

Had a quick look on my Obdeleven & 29 is External energy management (battery data module). Mine is showing installed & Hex 41 , whatever that is. Hope that helps.

Just felt for closing the loop here.

Got myself a true Ross-tech vcds hex-v2 and my God does it make a difference or what!

The program now works as supposed and I got my van and my sanity back to a normal working order.

The last bit 29 in Central elect. Controls some battery settings as mentioned earlier and the all important higbeam hold assist. So now I know that.

Anyways I can't stress it enough how you should _NOT_ buy yourself fake VCDS.

Have a great one!

There's been a number of these "issues" recently.

Genuine is the way to go!