CADDY2K.com

What’s the difference on the r32 to the caddy are the tears vented as well or is it just larger diameter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The R32 front brakes are vented naturally 345mm and the rears also are vented 310mm
I believe the caddy front is 288mm and the rears 256mm (could be wrong on exact size) but a bit of an increase for both front and rear - haven’t done the rears yet but one of the jobs to do this year (I know the rears do a small share of the braking) it will look better as well - bonus !

What a difference the new front end has made, looks great, well done.

Ken
What injectors did you use ? Mine’s a 2010 maxi with bls engine and am looking to up the power to around 200bhp don’t want massive increases were it’s not driveable so far it’s up to 155ish although was too it’s 162 when mapped so I am planning the next increase with metal boost pipes,better turbo and a better inter cooler thanks

BE WARNED BLS have weak con rods. Even std power brakes them. If your going any higher you need the conversion to 150 crank and rods.
I’ve done a few now for customers
I’m using 150 arl injectors with dssr 50 novels which are ok for up to300 bhp


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What sort of cost are we looking at to do this ? Not interested in massive power increases as it has an effect elsewhere .
200bhp should be enough and will make the maxi rapid enough I think .

It’s an engine out job to do it and head off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah I guess that would have to happen - that would enable the block to be painted whilst out - probably look to do this after the summer trip to the lakes - will give sometime to pick the bits up - think it would be a good time to fit a/c with engine out

Ac is a big job full dash and Hester system out.
I have a 150 crank in stock. Just need to find some rods.
I sent you a private message in Tapatalk with my phone number


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked at Tommyzooms thread on retrofitting A/C - have A/C on both works van and car which is a gods send in the summer (once in the lakes we had 27*c really bad day) I suppose once the engine is out the work in the bay is a lot easier just the interior to deal with then.

I have a 150 crank in stock. Just need to find some rods.
I sent you a private message in Tapatalk with my phone number


Not received any messages in taptalk yet

Yea I would say so


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t bond it the two halves were overlapped then riveted together in countersunk holes along both edges. Then plastic welded along both edges before filling and sculpting the lines


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know i haven’t posted in a while but there really hasn’t been anything to report since fitting the multi link rear suspension which came from only charged dubs.
Any way since fitting it I have found that the rose joints which which are fitted to the anti roll bar drop links and the watts linkage are of such poor quality that after only a few weeks they started to knock and rattle over every little bump.
So I have now sorted the problem by adapting new front anti roll bar drop links.
I bought a left and right hand thread die then cut a pair of drop links. I then cut two with right hand threads and two with left hand threads.
For the watts linkage I welded two genuine
Vw drop link nuts as they are 18 mm to the pivot diamond then I cut the 12mm threaded sections off the 4 rose joints off and welded them on to more front anti roll. Bar drop link ball joints.
This has to be done very carefully by welding small welds and quickly cooling it all in water as the inside of the ball joints is a Nylon cup which can easily be melted.
Here are a couple of pics on the finished job.
And all knocks and rattles are now gone



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk