Caddy struggling to start

[Caddynewbie36]

I’ve bought a 2011 caddy van 1.6 tdi. An when it’s been run for a while it struggles to start. It’s never a problem when it’s cold just when it’s been run then left an started again say hours later. I’ve had it back to the garage where I bought it from an they have put a bigger battery on it as the one that came with it wasn’t big enough, it’s had new injectors all four replaced it’s had new fuel lines an clips replaced on the lines that went to the injectors an still sometimes it struggles to start. The garage where I bought the van from think it could be the fuel pump or low fuel pressure. He recommended that I run it for a bit then see if it’s any better as he can only start cycle it at the garage an that it needed to be run to see if it’s any better. He said that the fuel pump can be reconditioned and the seals replaced but it would need to be sent away. Is there anything else that could be causing this issue please any help is greatly appreciated.

[Scoobysrt]

If we ignore serious problems for now such as a cracked block or damaged pistons your next port of call might be heater coils.
Are there any lights on the dash flashing when it won't start, has the garage you've been going to got vcds and if so what has the scans shown?

[LouisAMS]

Check the Injector deviation/compensation to see the condition of the injectors.

You should have a fuel pressure sensor, save the garage guessing and measure the values.

[Caddynewbie36]

The heater coils have been checked a they are ok. There are no lights on the dash board or anything. From coke even on very cold mornings it’s fine but if I then come to start the van later on that day after it’s been stood a while it struggles. The garage think it’s fuel pressure. Thinking there isn’t enough fuel pressure there that’s why they said the next step would be to take off the fuel pump a recondition it. The injectors are brand new it starts better with the new injectors, new fuel lines to the injectors a the right sized battery but not like it should. Before all that was added you had to turn it over at least four times turn the key completely off each time. Now it’s just cranks a bit longer but eventually starts without having to go through the key cycle multiple times. But because it shouldn’t do that the garage think it’s poor fuel pressure from the pump. Once the van is running it doesn’t miss a beat it’s a lovly van a strangely enough it doesn’t have any problems starting from cold which is throwing a lot of people out.

[Scoobysrt]

If it was fuel pressure it wouldn't run properly at any point in my opinion.

Usually when somthing isn't starting it's lack of spark, lack of fuel or lack of air or in some cases too much of the above.

A vehicle engine not starting again when warm is a common problem that's really hard to find and can lead to somthing cracked. When it's cold a crack will not let air or fuel through but when warm a crack will be open and oil, water, fuel or air can pass through where it shouldn't.

It really is a needle in a haystack at the moment and somthing almost impossible to diagnose without seeing it.

I agree, your next point if call should be to test the pressure not just pay out and change things.
Test the fuel pressure and do an oil pressure check. Check cylinder pressures as well both when hot and cold.

A vcds scan whilst it's cranking may show somthing up.

At this point is could be anything from a blick fuel tank breather to a cracked block, you need to eliminate things by testing them before your garage bankrupts you by just changing every part until it runs.

[Caddynewbie36]

Thanks for the advice it’s under warranty so the garage is sorting it out the problem started when it was under warranty . The problem doesn’t always happen I drove the van yesterday an it started fine after it had been sat for three hours after a cold start the problem is normally when I drive to work for 7am then come to start it again when I leave in the afternoon that’s when it’s cranks a bit more to get it going. But it’s not always the same sometimes worse than others. Not sure what testing equipment the garage how’s to tell you what they have already changed. You read on line horror stories about the 1.6 tdi engines an it’s worrying but since they have done some work on it a changed a few things it’s improving on starting but it’s not perfect. Thanks for the advice it’s always great fully received and taken on board thanks.

[Scoobysrt]

Keep us updated

[Caddynewbie36]

Quick update. The garage has changed the battery and put a bigger one in as apparently when I bought it the battery wasn’t up to scratch a too small a battery was fitted. They have put all new injectors on an all the pipe work going to them has been changed as the pipes going to the injectors kept blowing off as they have been removed so many times they no longer held on under pressure. They fitted a non return valve on the fuel line so some fuel is always in the lines an not falling back to the tank. It’s starting a lot better than it did. As before you had to cycle the key at least four times before the engine would start. Turning the key waiting for the lights to go out then clutch in an start. It no longer requires that four times. But it needs to crank the engine for a while to start the garage think it’s because the fuel pump isn’t spinning fast enough to push the fuel through an need to crank the engine a couple of times to get up to speed. They said it can be mapped to alter the speed the pump spins at on start up. I’m a bit unsure as it’s made by vw to spin at a set speed can increasing that damage anything an I though mapping a car or van was only something people did for performance reasons. It’s not the glow plugs either cause they have been check. I’m just unsure if to have the mapping process or not ??? It’s fine on a cold start up first thing after it’s been sat all night it starts first time. But then if I get to work at 7am an next start the van at about 1pm the starting isn’t as good. The head isn’t cracked or anything like that I’m just unsure as to what the problem could be.

[Scoobysrt]

The caddy doesn't require you to wait until the lights go out. Coming from a transporter i thought the same on my first caddy, turn on and wait until lights go out means heater coils are up to temp but was quickly told that's not the case on a caddy.

[Caddynewbie36]

Ok I always thought a was told to press the clutch wait till the lights go out the heater coil light. Then start the engine.

[Fos]

I’ve bought a 2011 caddy van 1.6 tdi. An when it’s been run for a while it struggles to start. It’s never a problem when it’s cold just when it’s been run then left an started again say hours later. I’ve had it back to the garage where I bought it from an they have put a bigger battery on it as the one that came with it wasn’t big enough, it’s had new injectors all four replaced it’s had new fuel lines an clips replaced on the lines that went to the injectors an still sometimes it struggles to start. The garage where I bought the van from think it could be the fuel pump or low fuel pressure. He recommended that I run it for a bit then see if it’s any better as he can only start cycle it at the garage an that it needed to be run to see if it’s any better. He said that the fuel pump can be reconditioned and the seals replaced but it would need to be sent away. Is there anything else that could be causing this issue please any help is greatly appreciated.

Did you resolve this? I’ve just bought a 2011 caddy and I’m having the exact same issue.

[Caddynewbie36]

I replaced a faulty injector then I replaced the egr valve and touch wood it’s been a lot better since I did both of those things. Injector number 2 was slightly leaking diesel. Mine just got worse and went into limp mode that’s when my garage said that the egr valve was blocking up. And on the caddy they are almost impossible to get to to have them cleaned so replacing it was the only option.

[Spiderman]

Starting fine from cold but then not re-starting once warm (an hour, maybe two later) is a classic symptom of a bad starter motor on this engine. I've had it myself and have known a few others with the same where as soon as new starter fitted it's been problem solved. Of course there are plenty of other things it could be too.

[Spiderman]

With the EGR it's impossible (impractical) to clean the actual valve but it is easy enough to remove and clean the valve actuator and position sensor. Sometimes it's just water / dirt on the circuit board causing a short. (But not always).