Ignition barrel jammed after service

[idallow]

Don't waste your time trying to fix the lock assembly, I've seen lots of people try but its just not worth the effort.

The notchiness is probably the knackered lock not the lock barrel/cylinder itself, if you go for a barrel it really needs to be ordered from VW otherwise its a whole lock set,

the only other thing I can suggest is to get a new key blade cut from a picture, this way the blade will be decoded and cut from the key number so will have no wear so may help, I'm assuming you've tried the spare key if you have one ?

It's possible you may have damaged the key trying to force it, we get ours from keysinthepost cheap and quick

HTH

[veedubgub]

The notchiness is probably the knackered lock not the lock barrel/cylinder itself, if you go for a barrel it really needs to be ordered from VW otherwise its a whole lock set,

The notchiness im explaining is when the barell is completely disassembled from the cylinder housing and steering lock.

I.e ive removed the barell from the aluminium housing using the paper clip method

Then tested the barell with both keys. As explained the older more worn key is a bot notchy where as the spare which looks like it hasnt been used much rotates freely.


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[idallow]

I'd just order a new blade then from keys in the post - I think its about £15 posted

[dan@biali]

That does look like the steering lock break that a lot of VW models are prone to do according to all the youtube clips I ended up watching. A few of them show you exactly how that mechanism works. You won't be able to buy any of the smaller components separately to repair that so probably easier to just buy that section from VW (#11 I think in the parts diagram).

You can reassemble without the parts but then you won't have a functioning steering lock - not the end of the world but I'm sure an insurance company would take a dim view if the worst happened.

Can't remember what has been recommended for lock lube but believe graphite powder not ideal (neither is WD40).

[idallow]

Lock is 1K0 905 841, you may need the 2 shear bolts N90584502 but these are just a standard M8 x 20

£25 of ebay brand new with a 3 yr warranty, silly money at the dealer...

[veedubgub]

You can reassemble without the parts but then you won't have a functioning steering lock - not the end of the world but I'm sure an insurance company would take a dim view if the worst happened.

Yep thats what i thought may be the case. will just go for a replacement lock then

Can't remember what has been recommended for lock lube but believe graphite powder not ideal (neither is WD40).

if anyone has a recommendation, let me know pls

[veedubgub]

shear bolts N90584502 but these are just a standard M8 x 20

Yep, the 'security' ones arent very secure



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[dan@biali]

They aren’t just m8 bolts. The shear part is they have an external torx head that snaps off when torqued correctly meaning they have to be drilled out.

[veedubgub]

Correct, what i meant was they're fairly easily removed, hence not much of a security feature.
I tapped them loose enough to be undone by hand using a centre punch around the outside of the bolt heads in a few minutes.

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[dan@biali]

That sounds easier than some of the clips I watched!

I believe the lubricant recommended for lock barrels is PTFE based like GT85 or WD40 Specialist Anti Friction Dry.

[Scoobysrt]

Gt85, aldi usually have it at £2 a can.

You can get a new blade cut from your spare key, if your local timpsons don't have a blade you can get one from ebay and have them cut it. I've got blades but my laser key machine is waiting for a new motor. If you get stuck finding a blade I can send you one.
If you prefer you can give vw your van number and they can provide cut keys as long as its still on original locks.
Easiest solution is to swap keys over and use the notchy one for emergencies.

[veedubgub]

@Scoobysrt
Cheers for that. Will get a new blade cut and see how how it goes.

I managed to pick up a new replacment housing and switch off a guy selling on FB for £20

Though it was going to be aftermarket but it has the vw audi stamp, and all the other markings identical to the one i removed on it so appears to be genuine and unused from what i can tell.
So that seems like a result...(on second thoughts, the aftermarket ones might actually be less prone to failing than genuine ones! :-). either way its a cheap replacement if it lasts me a good while)

The only thing thats slightly different is the part number and the number of wires coming from the switch connection plug wire.
Ive swapped out the plug and wire for the old one but kept the new switch.

Will reassemble everything when i get a chance and post back the outcome

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[Scoobysrt]

Sounds good, once you get in there it's all pretty straight forward isn't it. Good luck.

[veedubgub]

Yes its pretty easy to do with the right pointers.
Got it all reinstalled today and it works as expected.
Just waiting for the replacement key blade to arrive.

@Scoobysrt
@dan@biali
@idallow

Many thanks to you all for you help on this.
You've saved me a good few £££'s that i might have otherwise paid out to a garage.

Cheers
:-)

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[Scoobysrt]

No problem mate, that's what we're all here for, helping each other out, glad you've got it sorted

Be careful swapping the blade, if you're swapping the whole part they can be a pain when the spring pops out, if your knocking the pin out and just swapping the actual blade portion you'll be fine.