Tow bar fitting and electrics query

[Ade16]

Afternoon ,

I’ve tried a search on the forum and can’t get an answer so here is my query....

I’m looking for a detachable to want for my 2013 caddy swb . Prices are ranging from 400 to over 600 fitted depending on dedicated or universal electrics.

I only need 7 pin electrics as it’s only going to be used for a Thule bike carrier .

Is it worth me fitting one myself, if so pretty easy to do.?

And what’s your opinion on a dedicated wiring loom or a universal, much involved with wiring up each option....?

Cheers all and apologies if this is in the wrong section, I have limited access still as I a newbie

[VanLife]

I recently fitted a Brink detachable towbar to my lwb maxi. Very happy with it. Its a good quality towbar.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brink-Detach ... 635-2958-0

And used a generic 12N socket which was £9

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-N-prewire ... 635-2958-0

Very easy to do as you can trace the wires from the taillights. Hardest bit is getting the cable inside the cabin. I fed mine through the chassis to keep it neat.

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[petrev]

There is a grommet for the tow bar electrics, inside rear right wheel arch - 2 there actually, 1 for rear parking sensors.

Brink removable are great, fitted one to a Skoda.
Really easy.
Generic wiring should be fine.

[theoldseacaptain]

Make sure you use a bypass relay kit if not going with a dedicated electrics as the light circuits are not designed to power a trailer board as well as the rear lamps - I.e scotchlocking onto the rear wiring!

I recently changed to a dedicated electrics kit after finding mine having problems due to a cheap botched installation by the previous owner. Fitted in under an hour including removing all the old wiring. Everything just works properly now and parking sensors are disabled automatically.

[VanLife]

I could be wrong here but don't you only need the bypass relay if you have parking sensors? Otherwise taking power from the rear lights is fine. The wire and fuses are more than capable of powering an extra bulb or two, they draw such small currents.

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[Doc]

The wire and fuses might be more than capable of running an extra lamp or two but the transistor driven output from the central electric control module is monitored for consumption and will shut down the output if it detects an error in terms of excessive current consumption.

[Ade16]

Thanks for the replies, I’m confident with the towbar fitting but it’s just the electrics that concern me .

Am I right to believe that if I get the dedicated wiring kit this is a plug the standard light socket into the kit and plug the other end back into the light.

Or is there more to it than that. Could do without running cables through the van to the cabin ideally as it’s insulated and carpeted .....

Cheers for the help

[Doc]

You will need to get to wiring in both rear quarters and then get a permanent 12V supply to the module IF you are going to use the bypass module.
Alternative would be to run all the way to the cabin with your trailer wire and fit the module up there.

[Ade16]

Aha ok thanks for clearing that up ...

I was hoping not to have to feed a cable to the cab.

Looks like dedicated is the way to go, then I need to coding to the car don’t I....

[Doc]

You'll only need coding if you use the VW kit, otherwise it's not necessary.
The VW kit has the benefit of shutting off parking sensors and adjusting your ABS stability program when a trailer is attached.

[Ade16]

Ok that’s great ... thanks for the advice