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Flog_TSC wrote: ↑Fri Sep 12, 2025 8:31 pm Did you use the spray or the paint on stuff ?


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The paint on kind, as I thought the spray can would be a bit messy as I would have been laying under there while doing it!
FYI I bought the big 1 litre tin and it's way more than needed

stu_b wrote: ↑Mon Sep 15, 2025 3:19 am @transpilot
The key fob cover might be pricey (not really) but you'll know it's quality and will last when u buy from a reputable seller such as Vanstyle - they've already done the hard yards to get a suitable supplier and one the is a perfect fit

As for the barn door security panels, are they just held in place with 4x screws, never seen them removed before
As for the vibration on them, the sound deadening would be good but also prob just need to be packed out with some of the BnQ special recycled plastic insulation to "buffer" out the empty space (or do as extra !!)

Looks like it's coming along in great leaps

It's such a good fit I wonder if it's a genuine one, it's one of those little things that would have annoyed me every time I look at it!

- Yea, the security panels are just screwed in. They're not a very good match to the shape of the window and touch the frame in the corners which might be where most of the noise comes from. They also sit in quite deep with only about 10mm behind them so it wouldn't take much to pack them out. I do think they're an essential addition though for security.

Got the floor done and decided to rivnut it so that it can be taken out again when needed. I though rivnuts would be easy but they're a bit of a ballache to get right....

For a twin slider version an 8x4 sheet of ply is enough, used the old mouldy piece as template


Then cover the underside with 3mm foam, I think in my connect I used 10mm but I'm not too fussed on heat insulation this time round


Rivnut method is hard to get the holes lined up accurately, so mark the floor ply and then drill a small hole through that and the floor pan at the same time, then redrill the hole in the metal to the correct size.
Take your time to mark up the wood better than I did for the first one!


*** And for god's sake make sure you are aware of what is underneath the floor before you start drilling eg. fuel tanks and lines! ***

With an 8x4 sheet of ply you'll be left with these small spaces between the side door step and the wheel arch. The offcut from the ply is more than enough to fill these.


Use a piece of scrap under it to screw into the main piece


And that will do, not too happy with the fit as my jigsaw skills aren't too great but there does need to be a small gap all around for the carpet to fit too

Nice one, looks really good!

Tidy work with the rivnuts, I'm planning to do mine like that too - how many did you go for? Good idea with the foam underlay too, should take any of the creaking out.

jakemcc97 wrote: ↑Sat Sep 20, 2025 3:20 pm Nice one, looks really good!

Tidy work with the rivnuts, I'm planning to do mine like that too - how many did you go for? Good idea with the foam underlay too, should take any of the creaking out.

Cheers mate, I used M5's as they seemed a good compromise between not drilling massive holes and decent size bolts.
In the pic below, the nut locations are pink and yellow is roughly where the fuel tank and lines are located directly under the floor, so for the centre one between the wheel arches, I wouldn't go any further forward than that

You're being too hard on yourself
The flooring looks good so far
But I know what ya mean, OCD creeps in huh !!
Using rivnuts AND the OEM tie down anchor points will make things rock solid in the back (no pun intended )
Did you put any paint protection down on the flooring after drilling / inserting the rivnuts ?

@stu_b Gave the holes a bit of paint with a touch up pen so should be good

Haven't made too much progress recently as I started thinking about doing the ply side panels using rivnuts, but realised I should probably do the carpet first and then set the rivnuts in place and that means doing the thermoliner/insulation before that and funds are tight at the moment for splashing out on loadsa carpet (As I want to do it two colours, probably)

But I did find a way to relocate the jack with the rest of the bits in the rear footwell. Quite an easy job,
- Pry out the original star washers
- Cut some 2 inch velcro to length to make 2 straps
- refit the washers, and put an extra solid washer and nut on


- Seat the jack and wheel brace together and strap up, job done!

Nice job n details on the jack
Hadn't thought abt that
Might have to steal I mean borrow that !!
Save ya pennies n do it once to you liking, you'll kick yourself otherwise

Have actually started driving the van daily now as my old connect, which still had a month left on the insurance and mot decided to stop firing up so that is now repurposed as 'parts storage' until I get rid of it.

In the meantime I've done what is probably the most important job, bike mounts - I reused the rear wheel mount from the old van but not the fork mount as I wanted to be able to put the bike straight in without taking the wheel off. Found some cheap bike mounts to hold the front end of the bike and added some velcro straps for extra stability. Already been out with it and seems to be rock solid


The back wheel...


And the front end, some cheap adjustable wall mounts and a velcro strap=job done

Transitionpilot wrote:Have actually started driving the van daily now as my old connect, which still had a month left on the insurance and mot decided to stop firing up so that is now repurposed as 'parts storage' until I get rid of it.

In the meantime I've done what is probably the most important job, bike mounts - I reused the rear wheel mount from the old van but not the fork mount as I wanted to be able to put the bike straight in without taking the wheel off. Found some cheap bike mounts to hold the front end of the bike and added some velcro straps for extra stability. Already been out with it and seems to be rock solid


The back wheel...


And the front end, some cheap adjustable wall mounts and a velcro strap=job done

That’s quality mate


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I can only dream of loading my bike up without pulling the front wheel out. Zero chance with modern XL enduro and DH bikes given the length of them

FortanaMK5 wrote: ↑Sat Oct 18, 2025 8:39 am I can only dream of loading my bike up without pulling the front wheel out. Zero chance with modern XL enduro and DH bikes given the length of them

I manage to fit my 29" DH bike in a caddy no problem, just needs to be at a slight angle or turn the bars

Transitionpilot wrote: ↑Fri Oct 17, 2025 8:44 am And the front end, some cheap adjustable wall mounts and a velcro strap=job done

Genius! I've been thinking about doing something similar, and this looks like the best way to do it

Nice! I think i need to do some wood work for my own bike