High gear/Low revs shake.. See post!

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StePar
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High gear/Low revs shake.. See post!

Post by StePar »

Afternoon guys,

So I've recently picked up my first caddy.. Ive started to notice a little shaking if trying to accelerate between 1000-1500 rpm in 3rd/4th/5th.

I've read a few posts on here and various forums, some which say I need to change down gear to accelerate and others say it could be the dog bone mount.

So the car I came from was an A class 2.2 litre which was mapped and had plenty of torque throughout the rev range.. so might be that i'm just not changing down enough BUT I popped the bonnet earlier and had a little wiggle of the engine.. there is definitely some forward and back movement there.

Now i'm no mechanic and I have zero experience with these caddys but is this bit of play normal or do I need to be looking at the mounts?

Thanks in advance.

(2013 1.6 Caddy)
EricsCaddy
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Re: High gear/Low revs shake.. See post!

Post by EricsCaddy »

In a nut shell, no movement.

But the mounts are all rubber so will have some very slight wiggle room, I usually wedge a big bar somewhere and pry off them to get movement, if just rocking the engine by hand and getting movement then sounds like ones failed.

Those engines have 3 mounts, one on the left just beside the coolant bottle, one on the right under the battery tray and one on the very bottom under the middle area of the engine.

A good way to check if you have a helper is get them to firmly apply the handbrake, put it into 1st gear and bring the clutch up and watch the engine move, you can do that going between 1st and reverse to see which mounts failed.

And for what it’s worth it may be the flywheel rattling also.

Good luck!
Last edited by EricsCaddy on Fri Jul 01, 2022 6:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2019 Caddy Highline, Heated screen, parking sensors, cruise, auto lights, virtual cockpit dash, custom blue seatbelts, heated GTE seats, GTE MFSW, climatic, rear camera, discover media nav, oem+ led headlights, GTE tartan doorcards, Audison sound system (project: highest spec highline :twisted: )
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Doc
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Re: High gear/Low revs shake.. See post!

Post by Doc »

I would agree with the other posts you have seen. 1000-1500RPM is a range for setting off in first gear in a turbo diesel vehicle. Your engine won't produce the required torque below 1850RPM so the vibrations you experience are likely the engine labouring due to being loaded up too low in the rev range.
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StePar
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Engine size/power: 1.6 CR TDI (102bhp)

Re: High gear/Low revs shake.. See post!

Post by StePar »

Thanks Doc!
Last edited by Giddy on Sat Jul 02, 2022 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: removed unnecessary quote of previous post
StePar
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Engine size/power: 1.6 CR TDI (102bhp)

Re: High gear/Low revs shake.. See post!

Post by StePar »

@EricsCaddy
Really appreciate the reply mate. Will get somebody to have a look with me tomorrow.

Without sounding stupid.. will it be obvious which mount has failed by which way the engine moves or something along those lines?

Fingers crossed its not the flywheel.. was replaced along with the clutch last year.

Thanks!
Last edited by Giddy on Sat Jul 02, 2022 10:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: removed unnecessary quote
Kuuspunt
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Re: High gear/Low revs shake.. See post!

Post by Kuuspunt »

I thought that vibration at low revs comes from clutch or flywheel. Mine was also just replaced so maybe i check motor mounts. Good info thanks!
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the swan fiend
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Re: High gear/Low revs shake.. See post!

Post by the swan fiend »

Yeah my 1.6tdi is the same, I get some vibration if the revs are too low. It’s normal IMO.


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Re: High gear/Low revs shake.. See post!

Post by Daramqp »

Depends on the vibration. The engine mounting rubber doesn't have to be torn, they just lost their elasticity from age, as in my case the engine side mounting rubber was hardened like plastic from old times, and the gearbox mounting rubber was too elastic, too stretched. The lower bone type mounting both rubbers were both intact but strange. When you have the old and the new one next to you, you can compare how they differ in their elastic properties, although at first glance all the old ones look healthy. If you want to feel the difference and comfort, it is not enough to change only one engine mount, you need to change all of them so that they work together properly. In my case, after changing it all together, the difference was like night and day. This is how I would recommend to choose the engine and gearbox mounting, not a metal-rubber bearing, but a hygro bearing, they are a little more expensive but significantly more comfortable and durable. The difference is like new from the factory.
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