CADDY2K.com

Hi guys, new to the forum so not sure where this belongs really.
We have recently purchased a 2011 Caddy Maxi 1.6tdi, 72500 miles. Driving on motorway and went into limp mode with the flashing glow plug light. It went to a garage who messed us about and done no work but assumed it was this that and the other. We now have it back home and another mechanic came out with diag but no codes whatsoever and won’t start. Has anyone had this issue and what it may be?

TIA

Normally, this is a sign of a failed injector.

The person who's found no codes maybe didn't have the right scan tool. The year of your Caddy has a real issue with injector failure and they are an eye watering cost to replace. If it was me, I'd try to get a used one to reduce the price but it still needs coded to the ECU using VCDS programming tool. In 2014 they updated the design to fix the reliability issue with the injectors. There are a few threads on here in the chat section about them.

You need to scan with VCDS or another professional tool to know which injector has failed.

Try wtdiesel.com for replacement units and advice.

https://wtdiesel.com/search?q=caddy+1.6&type=product

as the above mate, the normal signs are if the engine runs but is lumpy and with a rocky engine it'll be an injector or two. But if the engine is not rocky it could also be the EGR failed as another common problem with them.

however I'd get the codes checked/read to nail it down to what the issue is to be safe

Thanks guys. We’ve ordered some injectors from wt diesel, we think the last guy deleted the codes and this new mechanic using an Autel.
Think we’re gonna have the egr mapped out if can get it running.

Good stuff, let us know how you get on. When doing the injectors, they are clamped down in pairs with one bolt for two injectors (tut tut VW, silly / naughty cost reduction) so you need new copper washers / seals and new stretch clamp bolts, which are easy to find. Get the proper torque settings for the clamp bolts and make sure not to over tighten them (M6 skinny bolt into alloy head etc)

It will then run fine without coding, if a little rough on idle until the numbers on the new injectors are coded in, but it should still start and run fine till you get this final part done.

If the new injectors have a date code starting with at least an O (2015) then they will last fine. N was the changeover year for the improved design, before then they had an issue with the Piezo stack burning out. I posted a picture and explained the date code stamped on the injectors in another thread, look through my posts from my profile and you'll find that.

New injectors fitted and coded in, still no good, had remap today. EGR & DPF delete, still no good. Completely blocked Dpf so it’s booked in next week to have the inside honeycomb of the Dpf removed. Fingers crossed that works

Aw no, I never considered the dpf being blocked, that's a right bummer mate. Hope you get it working with a "clean out" of the dpf wink wink as that will have been an expensive week already.

Absolutely at my wits end now, Changed all 4 injectors, egr and dpf remap delete, dpf gutted and still won’t start.

Anyone have any ideas why? Was flashing glow plug light and limp mode triggered all this but was showing no codes.

Does it have fuel pressure at the rail? Need to be able to read live data. Even after cranking, the rail should be sitting at or near 290 bar. Can you post your full scan here if you have VCDS.

It can't have zero fault codes when the coil light is flashing.

We think that the first garage it went too wiped all the codes and now nothing is coming up.
The remap guy has all the up to date kit we’re using now. It turns over and wants to fire but then just cuts out.

Immobilizer then perhaps? Do you have two keys?

It should be possible with VCDS to check start authorization between ECU and clocks / immo.

Also it is worth reading the live data on rail pressure. It could still be low fuel pressure. Live data is still available and very useful even when no codes are present. Plus if the fault is there, the codes should have come back again. That makes no sense, as clearing codes only works for errors which no longer exist.

It’s still at the garage at the minute, will know more tomorrow, but I will ask them the question.

Is 40000kpa or 5800psi too high for fuel rail pressure on crank???

We’ve still got ongoing issues of non-start, gets too 1000-1500 revs then cuts out.

That's nearly 400 bar, a bit too high. Is the fuel rail sensor faulty perhaps. Not sure if it would fire up with that pressure.

Have the fuel lines been messed with before this happend? What was the history again?

Started with flashing glow plug light & limp mode then cut out and just cranks then stalls.
Had 4 new injectors, egr & dpf delete and dpf gutted.
We’ve ordered new fuel filters and fuel rail sensor but on crank it went to 40000 kpa, will attach pic if I can.
If this don’t work we just gonna stick R32 in it lol